Canine Coronavirus (CCV) is the second leading viral cause of diarrhea in puppies with canine Parvovirus being the leader. Unlike Parvovirus, Coronavirus infections are not generally associated with high death rates. Canine Coronavirus is not new to the canine population; it has been known to exist for decades. Most domestic dogs, especially adults, have measurable Coronavirus antibody titers indicating that they were exposed to canine Coronavirus at some time in their life. Its importance as an infectious disease and killer of dogs has probably been over estimated by vaccine manufacturers and some veterinary authorities.
Canine Coronavirus is a single stranded RNA type of virus with a fatty protective coating. Because the virus is covered in a fatty membrane it is relatively easily inactivated with detergent and solvent type disinfectants. It is spread by virus shedding in the feces of infected dogs.
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While leaving out dry food so your cat can eat whenever he’s hungry may be convenient, “free feedingâ€Â? leads some cats to overeat, often out of boredom. The alternative is scheduled feeding: Two or three meals a day at set intervals is a good pattern. Feed your cat in the same place every time â€â€? a quiet spot that’s out of traffic routes and well away from the litter box, or your cat may refuse to eat there. Leave the food out for a set period of time (15 to 30 minutes), then remove the bowls.
Mealtime becomes more complicated when you have more than one cat, since their appetites and eating behavior will probably vary; they may even eat different foods. Use separate food and water bowls for each cat, set well apart, always placed in the same locations. Feed the slowest eater first and the fastest eater last. If one of your cats gulps down his share and immediately bulldozes his way into the neighboring bowl, discourage him, removing him from the room if necessary. Or, if you have a cat that doesn’t eat his entire portion in one go, cover his bowl with a plate, then uncover it later for him to finish (refrigerate the leftovers if the food is canned).
In most cases, if you feed your cat high quality food in quantities suggested by your veterinarian, and if he gets sufficient exercise, he will maintain an ideal weight. But if your cat becomes overweight or is underweight, it’s time to take action. You can judge your cat’s correct weight by his ribs: If they are clearly visible, he’s too thin; if they are difficult to detect by touch, he’s overweight. Take a look at your cat from above: If his sides bulge out, he’s overweight; if they are concave, he’s too thin.
Obesity, the most common food-related problem, is easy to correct. First, talk to your vet about the weight-loss program that’s right for your cat. In many cases, this will involve switching to a high-fiber, low-fat diet and scheduled feedings. Introduce any new diet slowly Ââ€â€? suddenly placing an overweight cat on a strict diet can cause fat to accumulate in the liver, leading to liver failure. Along with a change of food, it’s also a good idea to encourage a sedentary cat to become more active through play.
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Luckily, most conditions that could affect your cat’s health can be effectively treated or controlled by medication prescribed by your vet. Getting that medicine into your cat, though, can be a challenge. Ask your vet to give the first dose so you can see how it’s done by a pro. At home, the trick is to appear confident. If your cat senses any hesitation on your part, the game is over. Pills should be swallowed whole unless your vet tells you that they can be crushed into the cat’s food. But even that solution can be a problem: Your cat’s highly tuned senses may alert him to the addition, and he may refuse to eat the food.
* Before administering ear medication, use a cotton ball to remove any residue from inside the ear.
* Apply eye ointment in small amounts at a time, so that as the cat blinks the ointment spreads evenly over the eye instead of ending up as a glob on the eyelid. Avoid touching the eye with the tube or eyedropper; this can cause irritation or even injury.
* Dole out liquid medication in very small portions and make sure your cat swallows it before giving more.
* Never skimp on medication or stop administering it because your cat looks better. Use it exactly according to your vet’s instructions and for the specified number of days.
If your cat displays any behavioral anomalies, give him a careful physical exam and pay closer attention to his routine. Not even the most secretive cat can hide physical signs of injury or illness completely. Some signs may be obvious â€â€? a wound, a lump or difficulty breathing â€â€? but others can be more vague. Your cat may just not seem “right” to you.
* Taking your cat’s temperature when he is showing any aberrant signs will arm you with useful information when you call your vet â€â€? and will also tell you when to call. A cat’s temperature should be between 101 and 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit (38.3 and 38.1 degrees Celsius). A slight increase may be normal but if your cat’s temperature reads 105 degrees F, take him to the vet immediately. Temperatures below 100 degrees F can also signal something serious.
* Look for any radical increases or decreases in your cat’s appetite or thirst.
* His bowel movements should be regular and his stools firm and consistent. If you ever see blood, worms or things that look like grains of rice in the feces, take a stool sample from the litter box, place it in a clean plastic bag and take it to your vet for testing. Constipation can also be cause for concern.
* Increased urination, usually paired with a noticeable increase in thirst, is a classic sign of several disorders, such as kidney failure or diabetes. Cloudy or bloody urine, pain or vocalization when urinating, also warrants a trip to the vet.
* Vomiting and diarrhea are common and may be caused by a simple gastric upset or could be a sign of something more serious. Constant vomiting, projectile vomiting, blood in the vomit or unproductive retching (dry heaves) may indicate a serious stomach problem. Persistent diarrhea may indicate a number of serious disorders.
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Cats do not announce their health problems to the world at large, not because they are stoic or don’t feel pain, but because in the wild any outward sign of weakness is a fatal invitation to predators and competitors. Even the most ferocious of wildcats will retire and hide when injured or ill so that healing can happen undisturbed. Small changes in your cat’s habits may be your only clue to his discomfort.
Although cats are solitary, most interact with their owner in the course of a day and stick to their familiar routines. A cat that chooses to be alone for more than 24 hours is probably experiencing some trouble. A normally playful cat that loses all interest in toys, or a listless cat that refuses to move at all, may be in distress. Don’t be fooled by your cat’s purring. This doesn’t always indicate contentment; when combined with a bad mood and extreme defensiveness, this rumbling my signal that he is in pain.
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Cats, like humans, can experience hearing problems or even total deafness due to disease, infections, outer-ear trauma, inner-ear damage (from excessively loud noises) or simply old age.
The cat’s ability to detect high frequencies particularly declines as the eardrum thickens with age. This condition not only affects the cat’s hunting skills; it also can compromise the feline’s ability to heed noises signaling danger.
In domestic cats, however, deafness is most commonly hereditary. Although inherited deafness has not been genetically related to specific breeds, the dominant gene responsible for producing white hair is sometimes associated with inner-ear abnormalities that often lead to deafness.
Incidences are highest in white cats with blue eyes; white cats with eyes of different colors are often deaf only in the ear on the blue-eyed side.
Cats have a range of binocular vision greater than any other carnivores, which contributes to their remarkable hunting skill. This visual ability comes at a price, however. Cats, like humans, have only limited peripheral vision, which means that they have to roll their eyes or move their heads to view anything located on either side of them.
Predators rely on acute distance judgment and depth perception to time leaps and strike prey successfully. Their eyes face forward, offering a wide field of overlapping sight. In this area of binocular vision, depth perception and distance assessment are keenest. The eyes of prey, on the other hand, are generally placed on the sides of the head, offering them a wider range for detecting approaching predators but less depth perception.
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