If a fish or coral in your saltwater aquarium contracts a disease, it is essential that you are able to identify this right away and quarantine any infected livestock, or you will quickly have an epidemic on your hands which will be distressing. Of course, not all diseases will be fatal to your livestock, and most are treatable. But, to prevent all of your livestock from perishing, you must act quickly. Here are some tips to help.

One of the more common conditions among fish when you first create your aquarium is called delayed mortality syndrome, or DMS. DMS occurs to a fish when new environmental conditions are thrust upon it like changes in temperature, oxygen level, or chemicals in different water then what they were transferred from, so all of your fish will be susceptible when first introduced into your tank. This condition is not the problem in and of itself, as it is not contagious and only serves to weaken the immune system of the fish.

It is important that when a fish seems to exhibit symptoms of a disease that your first step is to check all of your water factors such as ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, alkalinity, and anything else that, if at the wrong level, might harm the fish rather than provide a safe environment. If you have any doubt at all, change the water. If the problem was your levels instead of an actual disease, then you will see a change in your livestock�fs behavior shortly after the water change.

However, if it is not the environment and your livestock does have a disease, then one of the best resources for identification and cure is the Disease Aquarium Identification Guide. Of course, if you can get your fish to a veterinarian you may get a quicker, more professional diagnosis. But if you can�ft, then the DAIG is your best bet for identification and cure.

If your environmental conditions are right, and you have changed the saltwater in your tank, then your fish are ill with either a disease or a parasite infection, and now you need to move onto the diagnosis phase by either seeing the veterinarian or using the DAIG. You know your fish and what they normally do in their little fishy lives. So if one or many of them start acting abnormally, start working to figure out the problem immediately. Here is a list of common symptoms that are indicators that your fish is not well.

�œ Scratching

�œ Rapid shallow breathing

�œ Hyperactivity

�œ Twitching

�œ Reduced appetite

�œ Clamped or enlarged fins

�œ Faded colors

�œ Hanging out near the top of the tank

�œ Cloudy eyes

�œ Little red dots lining the body

�œ Hides more than usual or becomes listless in behavior

Obvious signs of parasites are if your fish has lesions, is swollen, generates white patches or has stringy white feces.

Most diseases are curable as long as they are identified in the early stages. There are medicines available. Seawater livestock can get sick, get parasites, or will react adversely in conditions that are unfavorable. By understanding what conditions your fish may contract, you will greatly aid them in their time of need.

SaltySupply.com offers the most premium aquarium supplies on the net. We offer protein skimmers, powerheads, pumps and more for your saltwater aquarium.

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Question about Dropsy:
I posted about a female Siamese fighting fish (Betta) that appeared to have dropsy a few weeks ago. I treated her twice with Maracyn. After the swelling didn’t start to go down, but she is still as swollen as she was then, but has not got to the point were her scales have started to protrude? Do you know what else that it could be. She seems buoyant and the swollen cavity appears to be filled by either air, of a clear liquid, when she swims in front of the lights?

Answer:
Have you tried Kanacyn? Maracyn (Erythromycin) is usually not effective for most causes of Dropsy. And dropsy is generally a symptom of something else, sometimes digestive, often kidney related. Because of this, Dropsy can often be very difficult to treat, especially if caught in an advanced case in the fish. What the aquarist often observes is a “pinecone” swelling generally caused by fluid building inside the body cavity, for this reason, reducing this swelling is an important step in effecting a cure. This said, besides treatment for a possible underlying infection, you want to take steps to remove the swelling.

Here are the steps I would take:

*Change water! (25% should be fine)

*Perform a medicated bath with Methylene Blue. To prepare this bath I use 1 teaspoon 2.303% solution per 5 gallons (double dose) in a bath of aquarium water from the tank the fish you wish to treat came from, I usually use about a ½ gallon of water, however you may use less. Measurement of the Methylene Blue does not need to be precise as this bath should be used for about 30 minutes (although do NOT overdose). Make sure you keep the water in a warm area, as in a cold room the water temperature can drop rapidly which would stress the fish. Do not pour this water back into your display aquarium when finished. This can be performed twice per day.

*Add one tablespoon of regular salt (sodium chloride) per 5 gallons of tank water and ¼ to ½ teaspoon of Epsom salts per 5 gallons of tank water. Add a Wonder Shell (trace element block) or similar product to add needed calcium. What these minerals will do is add electrolytes and change (and improve) the osmotic balance of the fish vs. the surrounding water to hopefully pull fluids thru the body thus reducing swelling.

*Treat tank water with Kanamycin (Kanaplex), or possibly with Neomycin or Nalidixic Acid.

Here is more info about aquarium medications: Aquarium Medications; treatments, how they work, and which ones to use and not to use

Prevention:

The aeromonas bacteria (that is often present in healthy aquariums) can cause infections that will manifest this way in poor water conditions. So maintaining a healthy aquarium with regular water changes, good filtration (if possible, this is why I see more cases of Dropsy in Betta kept in a bowl), good feeding practices (not over feeding and using quality foods), and maintaining proper water parameters (ammonia and nitrites 0, kH 80 ppm, nitrates under 40 ppm). All this goes a long way in prevention of Dropsy and other diseases.

A proper diet makes a large difference here. Do not feed your fish meat based proteins, I recommend aquatic based proteins such as white fish meal, shrimp or even the proteins found in spirulina algae.

As a basic diet I recommend Sanyu or Hikari Betta Gold (there are many other quality foods as well, although I do not recommend flake foods for bettas as their staple diet) Poor quality proteins (or better; unusable amino acids for fish) can lead to digestive problems or Renal failure, which can lead to the symptoms of Dropsy. All proteins are made up of amino acids, some are usable (by fish), and some are not. Those that are not are disposed of by kidneys in the fish. This can lead to renal failure or infection. For more information about proper nutrition, see this article: “Quality Fish Food; What ingredients are needed for proper fish nutrition, growth and health”. Also always soak all dry foods in water for 5 minutes prior to feeding as this will remove air that can lead to infections of the digestive tract. I would recommend this as a basic diet for your Betta: Sanyu Betta Gold

For further & expanded information and pictures, please see this article: “Aquarium Answers; DROPSY in fish; prevention, causes, and possible treatment of this symptom. “

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TREMATODES:

The trematodes belong to the Animal Kingdom Phylum Platyhelminthes, the flatworms and are commonly referred to as flukes. Trematodes usually have flattened bodies, a primitive digestive system, suckers for attachment to their hosts, and are hermaphrodites (an organism that possesses both male and female sex organs). The Monogenea are the class ectoparasites that infect fish.

Internal Trematodes:

Internal Flukes generally use intermediate hosts such as snails or other mollusks. The eggs must get into water in order to hatch and be able to infect their first host, a freshwater snail. The fluke develops in the snail and then burrows out to seek the second host which is a freshwater fish. Many species of snail and fish may carry these internal flukes.

Gill Flukes:

Gill flukes (Dactylogyrus) will appear on the gill filaments as tiny dark spots 0.04-0.08in (1-2mm) long. Gill flukes can infect freshwater and saltwater fish and are found on fish from the wild as well as farmed fish. These parasites attach to the gills of the fish and feed on mucus, epithelial cells (cells that line the inside of gills and perform the tasks of secretion, absorption, protection, and transcellular transport), and blood from the host, much of this material being produced by the fish in response to the physical injury caused by the parasites. Damage is physical and inflammatory, with secondary bacterial infections such as septicemia. Small or weak fish may die from the stress of acute infestations.

Common carriers of gill flukes include: Plecostomus, Otocinclus, Corydoras, Koi, Discus, Characins, livebearers (Poeciliidae), some tetras (Characins) and Barbs (Cyprinidae), and Elephant Nose (Gnathonemus petersi).

NEMATODES:

Also known as Roundworms are a very common phyla of animals of which there are many parasitic forms. Nematodes are one of the simplest animal groups to have a complete digestive system, with a separate orifice for food intake and waste excretion unlike the Trematodes mentioned above. Reproduction is usually sexual and males are usually smaller than females. Parasitic Nematodes can have quite complicated life cycles, moving between several different hosts or even locations in the host’s body.

If the Nematode has a direct life cycle, then it does not need an intermediate host and infection can spread directly from one fish to another by means of a fish ingesting of eggs or larvae.

If the Nematode has an indirect life cycle the nematode eggs or larvae enter an invertebrate intermediate host (such as copepod, tubifex worm, or insect larva) or a fish intermediate host (these fish are then consumed by larger carnivorous fish) prior to being eaten by or entering the final host fish.

A method of diagnosing a nematode problem is generally just a guess. When a fish is eating well yet is still not putting on weight, an intestinal infestation may be suspected. This is particularly plausible when a fish is eating regularly yet continues to lose weight, metabolizing body musculature to stay alive. This is usually seen as thinning along the back on either side of the dorsal fin. This often results in a well-fed fish starving to death.

True identification begins with a microscope. Nematodes are smooth, cylindrical, relatively long worms, which distinguishes them from the flatter, segmented tapeworms and from the wider and shorter Monogenea Flukes.

A few common Nematodes:

Capillaria is a relatively common nematode that lives in the intestines of angelfish and discus (and other fish as well)

Eustrongylid nematodes are found in muscle within the body cavity or encapsulated on the liver and other organs. These nematodes can affect a number of different species such guppies, gar, danios, and angelfish. Affected fish typically have bloated abdomens (similar to dropsy of bacterial origin), as these nematodes often migrate into the body cavity and can be quite large. Unfortunately the treatment of these Nematodes usually fails (which is often misdiagnosed as bacterial Dropsy leading to the statements that “Dropsy is un-treatable”)

Camallanus Nematodes infect the gastrointestinal tract of live-bearers, cichlids and other species of freshwater fish. Usually, the first indication of infection is a red worm extending from the anus of a fish (sometimes mistaken for feces)

TREATMENTS for internal Trematodes and Nematodes:

*Metronidazole
*Jungle Internal Parasite Guard (ingredients: Metronidazole, Praziquantel)
*Levamisol
*Piperazine

Treatments for external Flukes:
*Clout
*Trichlorfon
*Potassium Permanganate

For further information about this subject, including pictures, please read this article: *“Aquarium Answers; Trematodes and Nematodes in Fish”

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Even if your rabbit has perfectly aligned incisors (front teeth), it is wise for you to allow your rabbit-experienced veterinarian to do regular dental checkups as part of your bunny’s wellness exam. Undetected dental problems in rabbits are a major cause of more serious illnesses which develop due to the pain and stress of sore teeth and jaw.

Rabbits are hypsodonts, meaning that their teeth grow continually, throughout life. In a normal rabbit, the teeth are aligned so that the wear against each other as the rabbit chews. This maintains even, relatively flat surfaces (with some sharp edges on top) on the molars and relatively short, chisel-shaped incisors. The incisors are used only for cutting the food into manageable pieces that can then be prehended by the lips and tongue. It is the molars that do the grinding of food into the fine bits that are then swallowed and sent on for further processing in the GI tract.

Dental malocclusion in rabbits is not uncommon, especially in the short-faced breeds which have been produced via generation upon generation of inbreeding. Unfortunately, there are no chew toys or hard foods that will solve this problem, since it is primarily the wearing of the teeth (incisors *and* molars) against each other during chewing that keeps them at their normal length and shape.

If the teeth do not line up correctly, incisors quickly overgrow and can become unmanageable “tusks” which either snaggle up out of the mouth or curl back into the mouth, making eating nearly impossible. Although some veterinarians will be willing to regularly trim the teeth, this is stressful for the rabbit. Also, clipping the teeth rather than filing or grinding them down can be dangerous, since micro-fractures of the tooth from clipping can travel below the gumline, inviting bacterial infection that can ultimately be life-threatening.

We have found that the best way to treat maloccluded incisors is to have them completely and permanently removed. This is a surgical procedure that must be done very carefully and patiently by your rabbit-experienced veterinarian, to ensure complete root removal. The rabbit will probably need to be on pain medication for a day or two after surgery (Banamine (flunixin) is excellent for rabbits), but once the patient has recovered, the only adjustment the rabbit “parent” needs to make is to cut up fresh food into bite-sized pieces. Pellets and hay can be handled as before, without problems.

Many rabbits who have maloccluded incisors, and even a great number who have perfectly occluded incisors still develop molar spurs. These are sharp points on the edges of the molars that result from uneven wear. These points can abrade the tongue and cheek, causing pain and irritation enough to stop the rabbit from eating. Left unattended, this stress can trigger a potentially life-threatening condition called ileus).

In some very extreme cases, we have seen molar spurs that have actually grown *into* the tongue or cheek, causing extreme pain. In one incidence, a molar spur had grown *over* the tongue, forming a “bridge” that prevented the rabbit from moving his tongue!

Molar spurs can be filed down by your veterinarian, who may use anything from a Dremel tool to a blunt-tipped diamond nail file. The rabbit is usually put under light anesthesia (e.g., isofluane gas), and the procedure rarely takes longer than a few minutes.

As a bunny ages, she sometimes gradually suffers bone loss, just as an elderly human does. When this happens, the molars may become just the slightest bit looser in their sockets, inviting uneven wear and other problems, sometimes extending to the roots. In some cases, molar roots in older rabbits can begin to extend farther into the maxilla (upper jaw) or mandible (lower jaw) than normal, and may impinge on the tear ducts, causing runny eyes. In other cases, “overgrown” molar roots may even puncture the sinuses or the eye orbit, allowing intrusion of mouth bacteria into areas meant to remain sterile. This, of course, could be the beginning of an abscess. If you have an elderly bunny with any signs of molar root problems, you are wise to allow your veterinarian do take a series of head radiographs to detect developing problems before they become serious.

If your bunny is showing any signs such as

# Drooling
# Runny eyes
# Eagerly going to food, but then acting unwilling to actually take it into the mouth
# Gradual (or sudden) change in dietary habits (e.g., refusing to eat pellets, but happy to eat hay–or the other way around!)
# Unusual eating habits, such as a willingness to eat only one or two food items, and rejecting other types.

then it’s time to get him/her to a veterinarian who is very familiar with rabbit dental problems for an incisor and molar exam. If your bunny is one of those with dental problems you didn’t know about, you’ll be amazed at the relief he’ll will get once his/her teeth are properly filed and in the right shape. Make a dental check up a regular part of your bunny’s well-bun exam!

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A qestion about  Deaf bunny/Rabbit

Question
I’ve owned my dwarf rabbit for almost a year now. She was given to me by a previous owner who had her for about 2-3 years. She is a very timid, nervous rabbit, even with previous owner. She is frightened easily, and never comes when called. I am trying a few different tests, however, I am beginning to suspect she is deaf. What is the best way too tell and how do you care for a deaf rabbit? Thank you in advance for your help.

Answer

There’s no easy way to tell if a rabbit is deaf.  But if you stand out of her range of sight and make a loud, sharp noise, and she doesn’t react at all, then there’s a good chance she’s deaf.

A deaf bunny needs no special care.  They do just fine, except that it’s kind to always approach them from an angle where they can see you at a distance first, so you don’t startle them.  For other aspects of proper rabbit care, please see:

www.bio.miami.edu/hare/rabbithealth.html

and

www.rabbit.org/

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Question :

My little neighbour found a hurt robin in her backyard one day ago and is trying to nurse him/her back to health. Her dog got the baby. The live one drinks water but has not eaten since yesterday. She sits quietly, not moving. My little friend is doing all she can. Any tips?

The very best thing your neighbor could do for the injured bird is to contact a licensed wildlife rehabilitator immediately, while there is still a chance for the bird to be helped. You can find one here:

http://www.tc.umn.edu/~devo0028/contact….

These people have the training and the resources to care for sick, injured and orphaned wild animals. They also have the necessary permits. In the US, Canada, and many other countries, it is illegal to keep native wild species unless you have a license.

Also, unless your neighbor has the proper training, she can do more harm than good. I like the way this website explains it: “First of all, there are federal and state laws that prohibit keeping wild birds. And there are so many important but subtle elements to raising a wild bird that the job is only legally entrusted to licensed rehabilitators. Many well-meaning people raise baby birds or rescue birds from cats or after accidents, and sometimes they don’t realize that the bird in their care is suffering from a serious dietary deficiency. Some of the problems aren’t apparent to untrained people, but can cause death, or make the bird less likely to evade predators or to survive harsh natural weather conditions.

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Betta Fish are carnivorous. In the wild, they live off of insects and their larvae. Their mouth is designed to snatch prey on the surface of the water, and their digestive tract is too short to metabolize most plants. This means they are best suited for live food, but they can adapt to flakes and frozen or freeze dried foods.

If flake food is used, it should be supplemented by frozen, freeze dried or live food. Brine shrimp, Daphnia, plankton, tubifex, glassworms, and beef heart are all good choices to feed Bettas, and are commonly available frozen or freeze dried. Note that Bettas can take up to a week to recognize a new food type, so you should keep the staple food constant and supplement with treats and other types of food occasionally. Most appear to prefer a mix of brine shrimp and bloodworms for their Bettas.

There are dedicated Betta Fish foods on the market. These are usually pellets and should float on the surface for easy consumption. Hikari Betta Bio-Gold is well regarded, as are HBH Betta Bites and San Francisco Bay Brand Betta Food, which is essentially freeze dried bloodworms. Other brands have complaints about Bettas refusing to eat, inadequate nutrition and sinking pellets that Bettas can’t consume fast enough.

With the Hikari Betta Bio-Gold, there are complaints about the packaging, but the larger sizes are easier to use. Remember that each Betta only needs about three pellets, and overfeeding will result in contamination of the tank. This is both because of food that rots and excess defecation from the overfed fish.

Some Bettas won’t eat bloodworms, while others adore them. However, bloodworms are not a complete diet, and should be used as a treat or supplement for those fish that appreciate them. Most say their Bettas prefer live food, but some believe that too much live food can be bad for a Betta.

Let the Betta see the food coming. Drop the food right in front of the fish, so he doesn’t have to hunt for it. If the food isn’t eaten immediately, you should wait for the fish, but if it isn’t consumed in 15 minutes, remove it and try again later. Start small, perhaps 6 brine shrimp, and if the Betta eats them all and there is no sign of belly distention, and the fish still acts hungry, you may feed it a little more, but the second feeding should be smaller.

There are products marketed at Betta vacation foods, but results are mixed. Some appear to swear by them, while others complain of the overfeeding issues listed above. Additionally, many fish foods claim to be color enhancers. It appears the actual importance is proper nutrition and good conditions, so any good source of nutrients would be about as effective in color enhancement as any other. Adult Betta Fish can be happy with feedings once or twice a day, provided care is taken to present a balanced diet and the correct amount of food is provided.

Want to how to have a healthy and Stress Free Betta? Click Here to check out this great book!

Did you find my advice on Betta Fish helpful? Then be sure to check out my blog on betta fish! Just Click Here to check it out!

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So, you are a proud koi pond owner with a dozen beautiful koi fish. Everything is fine until that moment when your koi fish getting sick for the first time. What you should do?

Prevention is the most important thing, because prevention is much more easier than cure your koi fish.

You need to prepare yourself for the time, when your koi fish will be sick. First of all you need to know a bit about the different fish diseases. One of the principal causes of fish mortality is bacterial disease. I suggest you to read some articles or books about koi fish disease. For example: “The Manual of Fish Health” from Tetra Press, “Koi Herpes Virus, The Deadly Disease” or “Little Koi Disease Guide” from me.

I suggest you to make a koi first aid kit, which will contain the following supplies:

PH test kit for measuring the pH level of your pond or aquarium water.

Ammonia test kit determines the level of toxic ammonia, which can come from fish waste and urine, uneaten fish food and decaying plants or dead insects.

Chlorine test kit which rapidly treats fungal infections on body and fins of pond fish. Also treats internal and external bacterial infections.

De-chlor: this water conditioner instantly eliminates chlorine and reduces toxicity of common heavy metals.

Dylox used to control anchor worms (Lernea), gill flukes (Gyrodactylus and Cleidodiscus), and fish lice (Ergasilus and Argulus).

Malachite green is effective against certain protozoan parasites and fungus infections of fish and eggs.

Betadine is an iodine compound used to disinfect eggs against bacterial infections and possibly viruses. Methylene blue is effective against ectoparasitic and fungal infections.

Salt most useful chemicals in the treatment of external diseases of fish. Formalin is one of the most often used chemicals in the treatment of external parasites of fish.

With the help of these medications you will be able to cure your koi fish.

You can find information and pictures about Koi Pond at Nicol’s Koi site.

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